Method of making hats



March 29, 1938. E, C, SLOAN ET AL 2,112,384 Y METHOD OF MAKING HATS r original Filed Feb. 4, 1935 5 sheets-sheet 2 March 29, 1938. E. c. sLoAN ET Al." 2,112,384 A METHOD OF MAKING HATS original Filed Feb. 4, 1955' 5 sheets-sheet s March 29, v193:2.. E C, SLOAN ,TAL 2,112,384

METHOD OF MAKING HATS original Filed Feb. 4, i935 5 sheets-sheet 4 Marh29,193s. EQSLOAN ETAL 2,112,384

METHOD OFv MAKING HATS Original' Filed Feb. 4, 1935 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented Mar. 29, 1.938

UNITED STATE-s METHOD F MAKING HATS Edward C. Sloan, Geneva, and Gustave A. Sporre, St. Charles, Ill., assignors to Jesse B. Hawley,

Geneva, Ill.

Original application February 4, 1935, Serial No. 4,862. Divided and this application March 12, 1936, Serial No. 68,458. In Canada January 29 1936 6 Claims.

The present invention relates to hats and more particularly to hats made of fibrous material.

Among the objects of the invention are to provide a novel hat composed of fibrous material and having a covering of suitable material and also a novel method of producing such hat. The invention comprehends the making of a hat which will be light in weight, which will have excellent heat transfer insulating properties, which will not absorb and hold fluids and thus will be fluid proof,

which is impervious to fluids, which -may be easily cleaned with the usual cleaning agents without any injurious effect on the hat, which is stiff,

tough and durable, which may be colored and 1,-, decorated as desired, which has coverings of any desired material, which will maintain its shape,

` which will have the appearance of hats made of cloth or the like, which may be produced quickly with simple operations at small expense and cost and on a large scale or in a large capacity of production Without the necessity of.making hats of different sizes to fit different sizes of heads thus eliminating the need for different equipment, ma-

chinery and apparatus for different sizes of hats,

which Will be accurately and uniformly made,

which in the manufacturing thereof may be easily and quickly made in any desired shape or form,

which may be compressed or compacted as desired,

which will have sharp, well defined and distinct features, ornate or otherwise, which will have any surface finish desired and any color or combination of colors as desired, and which will have an attractive appearance. 5

The invention also comprehends the producing of a novel hat composed of fibrous material initially deposited, accreted, interlaced and integrated so as to form a seamless'integral stiff hat in the final desired shape, form or contour and character, free of internal stresses tending to change its form, shape or contour as initially produced,

thus avoiding warping, distortions and the like.'

The hat of the present invention is made or composed initially in its final and intended form oi' fibrous material deposited, accreted, interlaced,

molded and integrated preferably upon a contoured porous former so that the member so produced is seamless, of the desired thickness and compactness orA density, light in weight, stiff, tough and durable, and without deforming stresses and strains. There is no tendency for it to change to any other shape or 'contour or even become distorted'to any degree, because it is not deformed from any other shape or contour, and hence it remains normally of the shape it initially 5.-, received when molded or accreted etc. Should anything tend to change its shape, it will restore itself to its original shape or state, thus making for permanency of form and condition.

Another advantage of making the hat by ac-A creting fibrous material upon a contoured porous former is that any desired shape, contour a-nd design feature may be obtained which would be impossible to effect by the deformation of a sheet of materiaLthe final desired fo'rm being produced by the present invention initially when the fibres are accreted, interlaced and integrated.

Our invention comprehends more particularly the making of hats of the character described above with a covering, preferably of cloth, on either the outer or inner surface of the hat or both, said covering being preferably obtained by molding a sheet of cloth by means of dies of the same cont-our as that of the hat-body-blank and maintaining said sheet under constant yieldable stretching tension in all directions throughout the molding stage, and until said sheet is caused to conform to the shape of the mold. In the case of a cloth covering only on the outer surface of the hat, the-latter preferably has an inner coating of any desired suitable substance with or Without an inner liner of cloth or the like. In the case of covering both the outer andinner surfaces, the hat body or carcass is completely encased or enveloped in the cloth or like covering.

The body or carcass of the hat of the present invention is preferably produced by the method and means disclosed in the co-pending application of Jesse B. Hawley, identified as Serial No. 4866, filed February 4, 1935, and as disclosed herein.

This is a division of our co-pending application Ser. No. 4862, filed Feb. 4, 1935.

Other objects, advantages, capabilities, features, process steps andthe like are comprehended by the invention as will later appear and as are inherently possessed by the invention.

Referring to the drawings;

Fig. 1 is a vertical sectional view through a means' for forming the hat of fibrous material;

Fig. 2 is a similar fragmentary view of a form of drying die that may be used;

. Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2 of the maledrying die with a female dryingI die; i

Fig. 4 is a. vertical sectional view of a heat transfer die means which may be used in lieu of the dies shown in Figs. 2 and 3;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary top plan view of a part of the die means shown in Fig. 4.

Fig. 6 is a horizontal sectional view taken in planes represented by line 6-6 in Fig. 4 of the drawings:

Fig. 'I is a fragmentary vertical sectional view of a hat blank made in accordance with theinvention;

Fig. 8 is a similar view showing a hat blank -having coatings or coverings. Y

Fig. 9 is a similar view of a male die composed of yieldable material, such .as rubber, gelatin or the like;

Fig. 10 is a plan view of a holder for the cloth covering to be applied to the hat blank;

Fig: 11 is a vertical sectional view of a male die of yieldable material and showing a stretched sheet of cloth on it before the application of the female forming die; l

Fig. 12 is a fragmentary similar view showing the application of the hot female die;

Figs. 13 and 13m are similar views but showing another male die of yieldable material and a hot female die for treatment of the hat blank with its coverings;

Fig. 14 is a fragmentary sectional view taken through the edge or rim portion of the hat blank and its coatings and coverings prior to forming a beadj Fig. 15 is a fragmentary vertical sectional view of part of a bead forming die means with a hat blank" and its coverings in place before forming the bead;

Fig. 16 is a similar view showing the formed bead;

Fig. 17 isa fragmentary sectional view of a hat having an inner coating or covering of desired material as powdered cork or the like;

Fig. 18 is a similar view of a male die of yieldable material and a cloth liner for the brim portion of the hat before application of the liner to the hatlblank;

Fig. 19`is a similar view showing the application of the liner and the use of a hot female die;

Fig. 20 is a similar view of the edge of the brim before beading;

Fig. 21 is a similar view showing the bead and the bead forming means, as in Fig. 16;

Referring more in detail to the drawings, the hat is produced from fibrous material, such as pulp or the like, and may include any other fibrous material such as wool, cotton, linen, silk', jute, hemp, asbestos, kapok, and similar fibrous material, the term pulp being herein used generically to include any, or any combination, of the various fibres that may be used. For the purpose of carrying out the invention, the brous material is placed with water in a beater or' beater engine to beat the fibres and to disintegrate and disperse the water, and also to shorten and hydrate the fibres to the desired point or extent.

The mixture or batch as it is usually called is then treated with suitable substances to proof the fibres. 'I'his may be effected in any of several ways. As for example, while continuing the beating of the material in the beater engine, water proofing wax or wax emulsion may be added to the mixture, as in the proportion of about 0.25 to 8 percent of the weight of the dr'y material first placed in the beater. The beating and stirring may be continued for` a sumcient period of time, such as from 10 to 15 minutes until the wax or wax emulsion has been thoroughly dispersed and mixed or incorporated with the fibres, after which powdered alum or a solu tion of alum may be added in a quantity suflicient to set the wax on or in the bres. This wax or wax emulsion has the property of softening, and water and moisture proofing the fibres, as also smoothing the surfaces of the fibres. 'Ihe beating and stirring may continue until the setting has been effected, and then the material termed stock may be stored in a suitable tank or vat for use when molding or accreting on the porous former or die.

As other examples, in lieu of wax or wax emulsion, papermakers rosin in an amount of about 1 to 5 percent of the weight of the dry material` first placed in the beater may be used, or latex, or powdered o r emulsifled asphalt, and the like may be used, each of which may also be set with alum as above described in connection with wax. The rosin has the property of stiiening, and water and moisture proofing the fibres. The latex toughens and renders the fibres resilient or resistant to deformation and the like. The asphalt is used to give the fibres water and moisture proofing characteristics as also for stiffening the fibres.

As further examples, proong may likewise, by a like or similar process, be effected with starch, glue, casein, or silicate of soda, and the like, in which case setting with alum is not necessary as in the cases referred to above. The starch stifens and smooths the fibres. The glue, casein and the silicate of soda stiifens the bres. The glue is particularly useful in connection with wax to counteract the softening effect thewax has on the libres.

The fibrous material preferably used is that of wood pulp or the same mixed with other fibres as desired. 'I'he wood pulp component may be of kraft fibres, which is a sulphate pulp, such as southern kraft fibres, sulphite pulp, or rope pulp, wherein the material 'is stiff and will produce a comparatively sti hat. When using softer fibres such as soda pulp, the material is softer.

and produces a less stiff hat. The sulphite pulp reduces the shrinkage of the kraft pulp and adds strength when used with the soda pulp, and hence it is preferable to use sulphite pulp especially the Mitscherlich pulp, which is a sulphite type of pulp, with either the kraft or soda pulp. The unbleached fibres are stronger than the bleached fibres, while the Mitscherlich sulphite pulp is stronger than the common type of sulphite pulp fibres. Preferably the kraft and sulphite pulp, both the common and the Mitscherlich type, are used. By mixing the stiffer with the softer materials with or without the other fibrous material mentioned above, any desired degree of stiffness or softnessv may be had.

'Ihe means s elected to illustrate the invention comprises al molding or forming die in the form of a contoured plate I provided with a plurality 0f openings or apertures 2, the lower rim 3 of the .plate being seated upon a table or platen 4 having an apertured hub 5 in which is vsecured the upper end of a duct 6 leading to a suitable source of suction or pressure (not shown) The platen I is adapted by suitable means (not shown) to be lowered into and raised out of the bath 1 in a vat or tank 8. The plate I and the platen l enclose a chamber 9 in which is nor,

mally created a suction for the drawing of the water of the bath through the holes 2. The bath 1 consists of water and fibrous. material the fibres of which are maintained in dispersed suspension in the water by suitable agitation yof the bath by any desired means (not shown).

I'he upper and outer surface of the plate I is shaped or contoured to conform with the shape or form' of hat to be molded thereon. Upon this contoured surface is a reticulated sheet or screen I0 of fine mesh and conforming in shape or contour to the surface contour of the plate I.

In operation, with the device in the position shown in Fig. 1, a' suction is created in the chamber 9, and the platen 4 with the plate I and screen I0 are lowered and submerged in the bath 1. The suction draws the water through the on the contoured lwall 23 as shown in Fig. 2, the

heated or hot air, gas, or other medium may v.

interstices of the screen III and the holes 2 to be delivered to the duct 6, causing a deposit, accretion, interlacing and integration of the fibres in the form of a contoured layer or stratum II on the screen I Il, the thickness and compact ness or density of this stratum depending upon the time of immersion, the magnitude of the suction, the nature of the fibres, and the percentage of fibres in the bath. In some cases setting up a vibration in the mold will also have some effect,

particularly in the interlacing of the fibres.

When the desired layer or stratum is accreted,

`interlaced and integrated, the platen 4 and the mold die I-I with the fibrous material thereon are raised out of the bath. The suction during emersion is continued to prevent the washing away of some lof the fibrous material, and also, after emersion, to draw air through the fibrous blank or stratum for removing surplus water,

that is, as a preliminary drying of the same.` Il?A desired warm or heated air or the like may be thus drawn through the blank to dry the blank but it is preferable to dry the blank in a manner hereinafter disclosed.

To assist in expelling the surplus\water in the blank, a female die I2 shown in dotted lines in Fig. 1 may'be applied to the blank with pressure to squeeze out some of the water as also to partly compress or compact the blank, the suction in the chamber 9 continuing` to draw out this water and discharge it through the duct 6.

The female die I2 comprises a contoured wall or plate I3 conforming to the shape or contour of the blank, and having holes or apertures I4 for the passage of air. At the base is provided a base flange I5 upon which seats the lower edge portion I6 of the housing or casing I1 of the female die, this casing comprising walls I8 and a top I9, tlus enclosing a chamber 20 about the wall I3. At a suitable low point is connecteda pipe or duct 2I for the discharge of any water that may be drawn through the apertures I4 under the influence of the vacuum created in the chamber 26 at the time when the wet blank II is compressed between the die walls I and I3,

The die I2 serves as a transfer means for. the blank II. After the blank II' has been compressed, the vacuum in chamber 9 is discontinued and a pressure is effected therein while a suction is created in chamber 20 of the female die. 'The die I2 is then lifted and the blank II will be lower portion of 'the wail 23 has a rim 25 which seats upon a table or platen 26 having an aper-l tured hub 21 in which is connected a pipe .or duct 28 leading to a suitable source of suction or pres-- sure (not shown).

The wall 23 and platen 26 thus enclose a chamber 29. The die I2 and blank II are moved down so as to setI the blank II to a pressure so as to relieve the blank from the die I2 and to cause it to adhere lto .the die 22,

`after which the die I2 is removed. The heat of the die wall 23 converts the moisture or water remaining in the blank to steam, vapor and the like, which-are drawn through the apertures 24 by reason of the vacuum in chamber 29 and are.;l discharged Y through the duct 28. If 'desired Vare drawn through the holes 24 be drawn through the blank and the holes 24 to effect a' drying of the blank, but it is preferable to apply a hot female die 39 comprising an imin shape and comprises end walls 35 and 36 (see' Fig. 6) side Walls 31 and 38, angle walls 39, 40, 4I and 42 provided with openings 43, 44, 45 and 46 for the projection of flamesfrom burners 41, 48, 49 and 50 into the chamber 5I, and a top wall 52. Besides applying heat the wall 3| also applies pressure to compress and compact the fibrous material of the blank II as also to give the blank the desiredfinished definition of contour. The steam, vapor, moisture, and the'like and discharged through the duct 28.

If desired, and preferably, the drying and compressing may be effected on the heat transfer die shown in Figs. 4, 5 and 6 wherein is shown a male die comprising a wall or plate 53 having at its lower edge a flange 54 seated upon a table or platen 55, thus enclosing a chamber 56 for containing a heat transfer medium. At the top the Wall 53 has an opening 53a with which communicates a duct 51 preferably formed integral at its upper end to the plate 53 and having itstlower open end 58 located in an aperture provided in the platen 55I(Fig. 4). i The platen 55 is clamped to a platen 59 which has an opening 68 in line with the opening in platen 55 in which the duct portion 58 is located, and in which is connected an end of a duct 6I leading to a suitable source of suction (not shown). Both -platens 55 and 59 are provided with openings 62 and 63 for projection therethrough of flames from burners 64 into the chamber 56.

y In the upper or outer contoured surface of the' wall 53 are provided a plurality of channels orA grooves 65, 66 and 61, extending more or less radially and of which channels 65 lead to and communicate with the opening 53a, there being also cross channels 68, 69, and 1I more or less circular or oval shaped for establishing communications between and among the channels. 65, 66 and 61 whereby steam, vapors etc. may be led to the opening 53 and duct 51.

Upon the wall 53 is located a contoured die wall 12, having a plurality of holes or apertures 13, and being provided at its lower edge portion with a flange 14 seated upon the ange 54 of the wall 53. At the top the wall 12 has a boss 55 15 to conform with the top knotfeature in the hat iblank to be later more fully described.

'Ihe upper and outer contoured surface of the wall 12-is covered by a thin fine mesh reticulated member or screen 16 having the same contour as the Wall 12, and having a base flange 11 seated upon the flange 14 of the wall 12 andan upper boss 18 conforming to the boss 15.

The hat'blank II reposes on this screen having been transferred from the molding die shown in Fig. 1 bythe transfer die I2 and placed upon the screen 16 by changing the vacuum in the chamber 2l) of the transfer die I2 to a pressure, after which the transfer die is removed, and the female die 30 is brought in place tocompress the 4blank Il.

The wall 3I of the female ldie 30 is contoured to the desired shape to be given to the hatf'blank,

:and has its base flange 32 above or over the flange 11 of the screen 16 and has at the top a boss.19.

It will be noted that the die walls 12 and 3| as also the screen 16 have contoured design features, such as bosses 15, 19 and 18 to form a boss 80 in the blank I I in representation of a top knot on the hat (Figs. '7, 8, 1'7 and 19), also ribs running radially over the crown part to form ribs 8| in the hat blank in representation of seams or the like on the hat crown (Figs. '7, 8, 17 and 19), and also ridges 82, 83 and 84 to form ridges 85 lin the hat blank in representation of folds or .pleats 85 on the hat (Figs. 7, 8, 1'7 and 19).

While theffemale die compresses the blank Il, hot products of combustion are projected through the burner holes into the chambers 56 and 5I so as to heat the Walls 53 and 3l and to supply heat to the wall 12 and to the blank il. `A suction is eiective in -the duct 51 whereby the steam, vapors, and moisture formed in the material of the'blank will be drawn out by way of the reticuiations of the screen 16, the holes 13 in the wall 12, the channels 65-1I in the surface of the Wall 53,

'and thence to the opening 538L and through the ducts 51 and 6I. The blank is thus dried and set with the desired finish definition as impressed by the particular surface contour of the die walls and the screen 16. The female die 30 may then be removed and the blank taken oil of the screen 16. If desired a transfer die similar to that shown in Fig. l with a suction in its chamber may be used to remove the blank from the screen 16, after which a pressure in the chamber of the transfer die will suffice to blow off the blank.

The hat blank or carcass shown in Fig. '7 is therefore substantially stiff, strong, tough, and water and moisture proof, the fibres from which it is composed having been treated in the beater with the proofing substances mentioned above. 'Ihe stiffness of the blank is particularly of the kind whereas when a part of the hat is displaced or strained, it will either be readily restored to its original form Without any injury to the hat, or restore itself to its original shape when the straining stress is rem'oved, a` characteristic which is not present in articles accreted in the usual way from theusual fibres, the proofing substances and the mode of proofing giving the hat, in this invention, the peculiarly new and beneficial properties and characteristics mentioned above. 'I'he moisture and water proofing quality is such as to make it unnecessary to coat the hat with a coating or covering of Waterand moisturE proofing substance, but in the present invention vit is preferable to apply a coating either on the outside or inside surface or both which will form a covering or skin to seal off the interstitial spaces or cells in the fibrous body of the blank particularly for effecting insulation against heat transfer, although incidentally the coating will also add to\the water and moisture proofing property or characteristic of the hat body.

After the blank, as shown in Fig. 7, has been dried and set, its rim portion Il is preferably dipped in shellac or the like so as to facilitate the later forming of this rim portion into a bead laterdescribed herein. i

After the`shellac has driedT-it is preferable to coat, as by brushing, the outer surface of the blank with a size so as to form the coating or skin referred to above. If desired, particularly in the case of where the inside of the hat is to have no clptli covering or to have only a cloth liner on the inside of the brim, a like coating may be applied on the inside surface of the hat. the case of wherelboth the inside and outside Surfaces of 'the hat aretc be wholly cloth covered,

covering as is more fully explained later.

the die is removed, the thermoplastic substance' it is preferable to omit the inner coating of the size. For the purpose of illustration the coatings are designated by the reference characters 86 and 81 in Fig. 8 of the drawings.

The size preferably used is that known as nitro-cellulose cotton which is dissolved in lacquer solvents, and is preferably pigmented with any of the various enamel pigments suitable to the color the hat is to have, or any suitable dye may be incorporated for the same purpose. desired any other similar -size may be used such as that made from acetate cotton. Even latex or rubber cement and the like may be used. 'I'he size does not penetrate the brous mass but simply forms a sealing coating or skin on the srface'of the blank. A'Ihe coating or coatings, as the case may be, also increase the water proofing properties or characteristics of the hat material.

After the coating or coatings are dry, either the outside or both the outside and the inside may then be coated with a. coating 88 and/or 88a of a thermoplastic substance preferably of a resin base, or the like, the thermoplastic being preferably applied by spraying in liquid form and having a volatile solvent. After the volatile solvent has evaporated and the thermoplastic substance has dried, a cloth covering is applied and a hot female die with the proper contoured wall is pressed against the cloth covering with requisite pressure. The heat of the female die causes the thermoplastic substance to fuse or become suiliciently plastic as to become bonded to the cloth so setting as to bond the cloth to the hat thus forming a tough durable covering for the hat.

When applying the cloth covering, it is preferable to place the coated blank on a die 89 (Fig. 9) of suitable yieldable material, such as rubber, gelatine and the like, the die being fixed to a platen 90 having a support 9|.

The vthermoplastic substance referred to is 'in the class of synthetic resinous compounds known as the vinyl resins of the polymerization group and more particularly those which are permanently thermoplastic, characterized by the bond group or radical -CH:CH2, and which are insoluble in most all known solvents, particularly the hydrocarbon solvents, except the solvents of the ester type or the higher ketones, such as hexone and butyrone. In other words, the substance used in this invention is chemicaly inert to the extent indicated above and hence is irnpervious to and proof against moisture, water, acids, alkalies, alcohols, oils, greases, fats, and the like. In its normally pure state it isodorless, tasteless, colorless, and transparent. It is also non-inflammable. It may be given any color or made translucent or opaque vas desired by the incorporating or mixing therewith of dies, pigments, llers, or the like. It is also tough, durable and resilient. It also has'a very strong bonding or adhesive property. It may be applied either in liquid or solid form or both. When using this substance 1n liquid ferm, acetone preferably is used as the solvent but it is -tofbe understood other solvents as mentioned above may be used Without affecting the idea of invention herein disclosed.

The present invention comprehends the application of a covering of cloth or the like to the outer surface of the hat blank,v or to both the Then y to produce a hat with a cloth or like covering,

or whereby the hat blank or carcass will be entirely encased or enveloped in the cloth or like portant advantage.

covering.

In either case of applying a cloth covering to the outer surface of the hat or to both the outer and inner surfaces of the hat, each covering of cloth may first be formed or deformed between dies to the general shape of the hat blank before applying the covering or coverings, although in some c ases depending on the kind of cloth used, the covering may be applied directly .to the blank without performing the covering Referring to Figs. 10, 11, 12 and 13, a sheet 92 of cloth is held in a stretchedconditlon by a group of resilient connecting elements 93 such as springs suitably engaged with the cloth as by clips 94 and with a ring 95. The cloth is wettedV with water or other suitable liquid and is then brought over a male die 96 of yieldablematerial such as rubber, gelatin or the like, and is stretched taut over the die as shown in Fig. 11 by forcing down the ring 95 (shown in Fig. 10) around the ldie and below it. The diehas on its contoured surface a stratum 91 of fibrous material such as one of the uncoated hat blanks, the stratum 91 adhering to the surface of the die body 96fwith any suitable adhesive not Aaffected by water, steam, moisture and heat. To the outer surface of the stratum 91 is engaged a sheet 98 of cloth also made to adhere to the stratum with a suitable adhesive which is not affected by water, steam, moisture and heat, and which is also peryious so as to permit passage of steam, va-

pers, moisture and the like.

With the parts in theA position as shown in Fig. 11, the cloth 92 being held in taut stretched condition, a hot female die 301havin'g a. contoured wall 3l, such as shown in Fig. 12 ofthe drawings, is forced down over the assembly so as to change the shape of the cloth sheet 92 to the contour of the die surface, that is, to conform to the contour of the surface of the cloth sheet 98, as clearly shown i'n Fig. 12. The threads of the cloth sheet 92 are so stressed and strained as to make the sheet 92 attain the contoured form or shape shown in Fig. 12. The steam, vapcrs and moisture escape through the interstices of the strata 91 and 98 to the lower edge thereof. After the cloth sheet 92 is dried, the female die 3l!"L is removed and the cloth sheet 92 peeled off of the die 96. 'I'hel die'30Il is similar to that shown injigs. 3 and 6 with the exception it is preferably heated by steam instead of -by ames from burners, and hence has ducts 93 for conducting steam into and from thechamber 5|"l of the die. The above described method of molding the cover has a very decided and im- For instance, to shape the cloth cover by the ordinary blocking operation, assuming a block of the contour disclosed in Fig. 11 of the drawings, the greatest strains would occur at those portions of the cloth engaged by the top of the block as the cloth is stretched by beingv pushed downwardly over said block. The' strain would be much less, however, iii the two "zones indicated by the open' spaces between the stretched clothv and the mold, as illustrated in Fig. 11, one being clo'se to the top of the mold and the other being much larger and located at an intermediate portion of the mold. This is necessary to bring it into engagement with the open zones above referred to. Therefore, there would be practically no stretching at all in these particular zones and the cloth blank, being subjected to unequal strains would not hold its desired molded shape, but by reason of the differently tensioned threads'would very quickly be- 93, movement of the edge of the sheet is restricted and a uniform tension is applied to the fabric at all times throughout the molding stage. Thus, the cloth sheet is under the same stretching tension in the zones indicated by the open spaces beneath the sheet as illustrated in Figure 11, and

therefore the tendency of the molded cover to change its shape after the molding operation due to the unequal strains upon the different threads of the fabric is, practically prevented;

The cloth'92 is then placed on the hat blank` which is on the male die 89 (see Figs. 9 and 13).

As stated'above the hat blank has on its outer surface a covering or stratum 81 of thermoplastic substance. This stratum is of suillcient thickness as to penetrate the colth piece 92 when sub-- jected to heat as described below.

A hot female die, such as die 39h with the contoured wall 3|", is forced down over the cloth 92, and the heat of the die causes the thermoplastic substance to fuse and become suiliciently plastic so that it penetrates into the cloth 92.

. 'Ihis die is like die 30 and is preferably steam heated, with the exception the Wall 3lb has a nish surface contour which is not present in die wall 3|, I

In the present invention the thermoplastic substance is preferably applied to the surface of the coated hat blank by spraying in liquid form, although it might be applied with a brush.

As the volatile solvent evaporates the liquid thickens and even becomes tacky. Air drying may be used but ifdesired the coating may be dried more quickly in heated air or the like. It is preferable to .air dry first to obtain a removal of` the major portion of the volatile solvents, and then force dry, in heated air, to remove the residual volatiles. l

As indicated above, the die 31|u is applied .with pressure. It is heated to the necessary temperature to fuse and melt the thermoplastic substance so that it will be sufficiently plastic or iiuidal to flow under the inuence of heat and pressure of the die. 'Ihe fused thermoplastic substance will enter or penetrate into the interstance will congeal or solidify and set. 'I'his substance acts as a stiifener or reinforcer for the body of the hat. It also actsas a Very strong', 65

adhesive or bond for maintaining the parts in the relations assumed when subjected to pressure and heat; also as a protectingl and preserving means preventing the access of moisture and other deteriorating media, etc. to the material of the hat and the cloth covering, and also, in some cases, as an adorning or embellishing means to give the hat an appearance of elegance and the like.

The' above discloses the applying of an outer fil tion'of the cloth 90a as the case may be.

cloth covering for the hat. The same operation is used for applying inner and outer coverings of cloth. Referring to Fig. 138, the cloth 90 destined to form the inner covering of the hat is placed upon a die 89a of suitable yieldable material such as rubber, gelatine and the like. A rubber band |98 is preferably stretched over the lower portion of the cloth 90a to hold it in place as shown in Fig. 13a. Then the hat blank with its coatings -or coverings of thermoplastic material 88 and 88a, is placed upon t-1e sheet 90l of cloth reposing on the die 89a. Then the sheet 92 of cloth which is destined to form the outer covering of the hat is placed upon the outer surface of the hat blank as shown in Fig. 13%. The coverings 88 and 88EL of thermoplastic material are of sumcient thickness as to enter or penetrate into the cloth coverings to become united thereto or bonded therewith when the assembly is subjected to .heat and pressure as described below.

A hot female die, such as die 30" with the contoured wall 3|b, is then forced down over the outer sheet of cloth, and the heat and pressure of the die causes the thermoplastic substance to so fuse or become plastic as to penetrate into and become united or bonded with the cloth coverings 90a and 92. 'Ihe die is then removed and the thermoplastic substance sets and solidifles. This substance acts as a stiffener or reinforcer for the body of the hat; also as a very strong adhesive or bond for firmlyand rigidly maintaining the parts in the relations assumed when subjected' t pressure and heat, also as a protecting and preserving means for preventing the access of moisture and other deteriorating media, etc. to the material of the hat and the cloth coverings, and valso in some cases, as an adorning or embellishing means to 'give the hat an appearance` of elegance and the like.

After the die has been removed and the thry moplastic substance has set, the inner cloth sheet 90l is trimmed even with the outer edge of the rim lla, and the outer sheet 92 vin either case of making the hat with an outer cloth covering or with outer and inner cloth coverings, is trimmed to leave an overhang 99 (see dotted line )showing 1n Fig. 14). A coating or covering of thermoplastic substance |00 besides covering the inside of the hat also is applied to the edge of the rim and to the inner surfaces of the overhang 99 and the edge portion of the rim of cloth 90a when the latter is present, in ample amount for bonding the parts when the overhang is turned or folded in over the edgeof the The extension 99 is shown in dotted lines in Fig. 14 before it is turned or folded in and in full lines after it is turned or folded in, the extension then having a part |0| bonded to the edge of the blank, and an inwardv ly extending part |02 bonded to the inner marginal portion of the hat brim rim or the edge por- An expansible band or hoop |03 may be used to hold the part |02 in -place until the thermoplastic substance dries. f

The beading die means is shown as comprising two die parts |04 and |04 of which the die part |04 hasa wa'll |05 contoured to correspond to the outer surface of the hat, this wall having a part |06 for supporting the brim part of the hat, and

a part |01 for supporting the crown of the hat. The lower portion of the wall may be open for the proJection of the crown top as shown in Fig. 15.

'I'hewall |05 is preferably formed integral with ar,

supporting base |08 which may be cylindricaljor oval shaped. The upper outer edgerlUS id* signed to be no greater in diameter than the outer diameter of the hat brim, as is clearly shown in Figs. l15 and 16.

The die part |04 comprises an annular plate ||0 having upstanding spaced annular walls and ||2 forming therebetween an annular channel ||3 with which communicate pipes or ducts I4, there being two pipes of this kind, one acting as an inlet and the other as an outlet, for delivery and discharge of heat transfer media or fluids. The upper edges of the walls and ||2 seat against a cover plate ||5 suitably secured to the walls and ||2 in fluid tight contact.

Depending from the plate I0 is a rim ||6 having a chamfered part ||1 which serves to guide the rim I6' over the edge portion of the hat. The rim has an inner smooth guide surface l|8 leading into a bead forming or curling groove ||9 provided in the plate ||0 adjacent the rim H6, as clearly shown in Fig. 15 of the drawings.

To the cover plate ||5 are threadedly secured posts |20 having heads |2| on which is normally supported a presser plate |22 having a contoured surface |23 to conform with the inner surface of the brim of the hat when the die'part |04is lowered for the presser plate to press on the brim of the hat to hold the hat in place when being acted upon. On the posts are springs |24 which react between the plates ||5 and |22 as is clear from the drawings.

To form the bead or to curl the rim portion, after removing the band |03, the upper die component |04a is lowered, the'inner smooth guiding surface 8 of which slides over and along the outer surface of th'e rim part of the hat. qAt

the same time the presser plate |22 contacts the brim part of the hat at the surface |23 of the plate, the springs |24 'being compressed to apply the required pressure.

As the die part |04 is further lowered the up'- per edge of the rim of the hat is forced into the groove I9 at the outer side thereof and the edge portion of the rim is ,curved or curled inwardly as it is caused `to move along the curved surface of the groove so as to bring the end of the curl or the edge of the curled part into engagement with the inner face of the brim as is clearly shown in Figure 16 of the drawings. Steam or other heat transfer medium is passed through the chamber ||3 of the die part-|04a asthe latter is held in place to. hold the curled part or bead in the form shown in Fig. 16. The heat is transmitted through the bead body so as to fuse the thermoplastic substance whereby it will permeate the coverings of the bead, especiallythe portion contacting the brim of the hat. 'I'hen cooling water or other heat exchange medium is passed through the chamber ||3 to cool the die part |042 This causes the thermoplastic substance to set and harden or congeal so as to rigidly and firmly hold the bead in its curled form and to firmly bind or unite the edge portion of the bead to theA adjacent portion of the hat brim. The die part |04 is then raisedand the hat'removed from the die part |04. Whether or not the edge portion of the bead be bonded to the -adjacent portion of the hat brim, the solidified thermoplastic nevertheless rigidly holds the bead to its curved shape.

In the case of ahat not having any inner cloth covering, it is preferable to apply colored thermoplastic substances to the inside of the hat, and hence the inner coating or covering of the ther- .fmoplastic material |00 (see Fig. 17) may befof any desired color. As for example the portion of this covering which covers the b rlm part of lthe hat may be of a color such as green and the portion which covers the inside of the crown may be white or any other desired color. In some cases it may be desired ,to coat the coated part in the crown with some substance like powdered cork. In Fig. 17 is shown a coating of powdered cork |25. 'I'his may be applied by brushing the inside of the crown with a clear size and then sifting iine powdered cork on this wet coating. After drying with the adhering cork the lacquer coating may be sprayed thereover. In this way the insulating qualities of the hat may be increased or enhanced. After this treatment the edge may be trimmed or be curled as previously described.

In some cases, it may be desired to place a liner on the inside of the brim of the hat. .In such case, (Fig. 18) a liner of cloth |26, which may or may not have been previously treated on its outer surface with a thermoplastic substance, is placed upon the brim portion of a male die |21 of suitable yielding material such as rubber, gelatine and the like. If desired, a coating of4 thermoplastic substance may be applied to the surface of the liner at this time, or preferably, a coating of thermoplastic substance is sprayed on the inner surface of the hat brim. The hat blank is then placed upon this die and upon the liner so as to attain the relationship shown in Fig. 19. Then the hot female die lli may be brought into place to apply heat and pressure so as to cause the liner |26 to adhere tothe brim portion of the blank and also to cause a fusion or melting of the thermoplastic substance whereby the liner |26 will be bonded to the brim portion of the blank. 'I'he die is then removed and as the thermolplastic substance solidifles and sets, the liner is firmly held bonded to the brim of the hat. The edge portion of the blank'is then treated in the curling die so as to form a bead as shown in Fig. 21. In this case, the edge portion |28 of the liner is trimmed even with the edge of the blank and the overhanging portion or extension 99 of the outer cloth covering (see dotted line portions thereof in Fig. 20) is turned in or folded inwardly into the position shown in Fig. 20 and held in I position-by the or hoop Il! `as in Fig. 14.

The curling of the edge is performed in the same way as described in connection with Figs. 14, 15 gilid 16 so as to provide the bead shown in Fig.

While we have herein disclosed a few embodis ments of the invention and a method of making the same, it is to be understood that the inventionY is not limited'thereto but comprehends other constructions. details, arrangements of parts. features. pn cess steps and the like without departing from the spirit of the invention.- Y

Having thus disclosed the invention, we claim: 1. In the process of making hats. the method of providing a pre-formed hat-body-blank. coating the same with a thermo-plastic substance, covering the coated surface of said blank v providing a pre-formed hat-body-blank of accreted, interlaced and integrated fibers which have been pre-treated to render them impervious to moisture, applying a coating of thermo-plastic material to said hat-body-blank, covering said blank with a cover obtained by molding a sheet of cloth by means of dies of the same contour as that of the hat-body-blank and maintaining said sheet under a constant yieldable stretching tension in all directions throughout the molding stage, and causing the cover to adhere to the hat-body-blank by applying heat and pressure until the thermo-plastic substance is caused to penetrate the said cloth.

3. In the process of makinghats, the method of providing a pre-formed hat-body-blank, coating the same internally and externally with a thermo-plastic substance, covering the coated surfaces of said blank with separate cloth covers each obtained by molding a sheet of cloth by means of dies of the same contour as that of the surface of the hat-body-blank to be covered thereby and maintaining said sheet under a constant yieldable stretching tension in all directions throughout the molding stage, and causing the covers to adhere to the hat-bodyblank by applying heat and pressure to each cover until the theme-plastic substance is caused to penetrate the materials of the respective cloths.

4. In the process of making hats, the method of providing a pre-formed hat-body-blank, coating the same with a thermo-plastic substance, covering the coated surface of said blank with a cloth cover obtained by molding a sheet of cloth by means of dies of the same contour as that of Athe hat-body-blank and maintaining said sheet under a constant yieldable stretching tension in all directions throughout the molding stage, said sheet being of such size as to provide a skirt portion adapted to depend from the hat-bodyblank after the molded cover is positioned upon said blank, causing the cover to adhere to the hat-body-blank by applying heat and pressure until'the thermo-plastic material is caused to penetrate said cloth, and then folding the skirt portion of the cover over and attaching it to the edge of the rim portion of the hat-body-blank.

5. In the process of making hats, the step of producing a pre-formed textile cover for a hat body consisting of molding a sheet of textile material by means of dies o f pre-selected contour, maintaining said sheet-under a constant yieldable stretching tension applied in approximately all directions at spaced intervals along the peripheral edges of the sheet. throughout the molding stage, and until the threads of the cloth .sheetaresostressedandstrainedastocausethe sheet to assume the contoured form of the mold.

6. In the process of making hats, the step of providing a pre-formed hat blank cover consisting of molding a wet sheet of cloth by means of dies of pre-selected contour, maintaining the sheet under a constant yieldable stretching ten- A sion in all directions throughout the molding stage. and applying heat and pressure during the molding operation until the cloth sheet is dry and the threads thereof are so stressed and strained as to have caused said sheetto attain the contoured form of the mold.

EDWARD C. BLOAN. GUBTAVE A. BPORRE.' 

